Baptise me in your love

 Those that know me know that I love a bit of pedantry. I especially love pedantry with deep historical roots to quietly have in place while one side yells and screams and is proven wrong if they simply looked with their eyes at what is plain in front of their face.

A new layer to the pedantry I admire so much: add Pope John Paul II. That's right - one side called in dad. 

I bring you the Site of Jesus' baptism.

"But Jesus wouldn't approve of the pedantry!" you say, probably clutching your pearls.

You're wrong, I say. Jesus loved pedantry. Do I need to remind you about the ten commandments and what happens to those who disobey? Also Leviticus. Also Exodus. Also Revelations. Also most of the bible.

The pedantry in question dates back to the Madaba mosaic map from the 6th Century AD. This map places the site where John the Baptist lived on locusts and honey until Jesus came to be baptised by him in an area described as "Bethany beyond the Jordan".  This has stood as being accepted and canon for eons until a re-drawing of borders in 1994 and Israel decided it was on their side of the River Jordan. Millions of pilgrims of several religions over millions of years disagree, but you do you Israel.

 

We arrived at the site and it isn't anything spectacular. There are churches along the way and so, so many flies. The path to the actual site is nice and shaded, which is a welcome change. There has been a modest amount of money put into this effort, something Jesus would approve of.  The actual side is cordoned off and - most importantly for pedants - is set back from the river, or is "beyond the Jordan", as the bible words it.

 

 The argument between where it is officially has raged on and on between Jordan and Israel. The area was in a heavily militarized zone until 1994. After it was demilitarized more evidence was found that pointed to this being the actual site where Jesus was baptised. In 2000, Pope John Paul II came to visit and this made it official as far as churches and godly people are concerned.

The Pope did pope things along side King Abdullah II of Jordan and his wife, Queen Noor.

Appropriately enough, this is a mosaic. It was all done by local artisans and is absolutely amazing.

The border with Israel in this area is two meters. The actual border floats in the River Jordan. 

This is a mostly peaceful border but don't think crossing it will be easy; on the Jordan side are armed military and we're told the same is on the Israel side. Our guide also tells us how there are families - primarily Palestinians - who will stand on this dock area while their other family members stand on the other side and talk to each other over WhatsApp. They can't come closer or be reunited for various political reasons and it is kind of heartbreaking.

Not to be outdone by some humble structures, Israel has built an entire visitor's centre on the other side. On the day we visited, there were Christians playing music and being baptised.

 Millions of dollars have been spent on this site in the hopes that money will make it official but UNESCO also says Jordan is the clear winner here. 

 

Me? I'm going with UNESCO.

To give a visual example of how close these two countries are.

 Next: cows and bees and not all who wander are lost.