Beating Like A Drum

While searching last minute plans, I thought about going to Loch Lomond. I did not do enough research on this and took it out of contention as an option, thinking it was too far away.

After meeting my cousins it was decided we were going to Loch Lomond!
Again, I thought this was too far and was very appreciative of the offer. I thought it was a Calgary to Jasper kind of a drive, which is a bit much to do there and back in a day. Turns out, it's more Calgary to Turner Valley kind of a drive. Not bad at all.

What an amazing place.

I had no expectations for this place. I really only knew it from song - and I really only knew the song because of John Barrowman's verison of Loch Lomond (warning - glitteriest kilt EVER), which is how I learned that River of My Heart used the same tune and it blew my ever loving mind.

I'm glad I went into it knowing nothing. It is a beautiful spot and I am eternally grateful we went.

After learning what a hairy coo (pronounced "hoory coo") was, I made it a goal to see them. The original plan was to go to a tourist farm inside Glasgow on my birthday, but I slept in. Whoops.
When we got into the Loch Lomand area, coos abounded!

This Alberta girl was surprised that many of them were pregnant in the fall.

There is a hilarious video that should be here of me walking amongst the coos but alas, when my computer died so too did the videos.

We almost got taken out by a lorry on the narrow roads but Danielle managed to avoid it. Good thing, as I didn't have travel insurance!

We stopped for lunch and had fish and chips. No mushy peas. We had tea with it too, which was a bit odd for me (as tea isn't something you normally have with fish and chips here). Very good!

Later this evening, I meet with another batch of cousins. I don't think any of us thought to get pictures. Again, the resemblance was uncanny! Michael and Elizabeth have both been to Canada - Elizabeth was born here. His children have not though there is a standing invitation.
Meeting family like this is out of this world. Listening to them, hearing their stories, making the connections, all of it was probably the best birthday present I never expected.

Next: leaving.

Lioness Among Lions

And we're back!
As I was updating, my computer decided to up and die. I'm very lazy and it took me this long to recover the photos from my memory card. Here we are.

Actual birthday in Glasgow!!

While wandering around the night before, I'd found a Tim Horton's. I was vaguely aware one existed here - and it makes sense, given how many Canadians come here for school - but I also vaguely recall being told it is closed. Turns out, it was open! And the Scot working behind the counter was friendly and helpful enough to be a Canadian. She gave me excellent directions and was very kind about my confusion.

Glasgow is home to a building designed by Zaha Hadid. I have long admired her work and sought it out. I had a near hit in Hong Kong and I wasn't going to let it slip away. What a perfect adventure on my actual birthday!

Following the directions from Google Maps, I took the train in to the central station. After that, Google Maps abandoned me. This ended up being my good fortune, however, as a wrong turn lead me to another Tims! So my birthday breakfast was a double double and a donut as one does.

This is a Rudolph donut, obviously. A Boston Cream with a red timbit nose. It was gooey and delicious and perfect.

I asked for directions to the necessary next step from a very nice police officer. She called her cohort over just so they could hear my accent (and hear me apologise about 20 times for taking up their important time with my silly directions question).

Glasgow has a unique subway system. It has two lines; one that runs clockwise and one that runs anti-clockwise. It is also orange. This has lead to the nickname "Clockwork Orange". It is very easy to navigate! The trains themselves are very small; narrow and low. I am not a tall human and I almost felt like I had to duck.

I took the subway to the Riverside Museum.

This museum was designed by Zaha Hadid. I finally did it!
The building itself is remarkable. It is roughly Z shaped and clad in zinc. It connects the city to the rivers Clyde and Kelvin. There are no internal supports, and the shape of the interior ceiling is the same as the exterior roof. It is very spacious on the inside! The set up flows very well. It honestly took my breath away when I first set my eyes on it. Zaha Hadid was an amazing architect.

The museum is dedicated to all things transportation. There is a piece of the plane from Lockerbie there, and a running track of ships that historically traversed the Rivers Clyde and Kelvin. There is even a turn of the century Glasgow cityscape to scale. I wish I hadn't slept in so I could have spent more time here. I also wish I took pictures inside.

After my time here, I met my cousins!
Karen, Danielle, Kieran, and Jayden are on the Hood side - mom's mom.
Let me tell you, there is no mistaking Hoods! The resemblance was instant and uncanny.

We went to dinner at a mall. Inside the mall was a giant slide for the kiddos (and for adults too if we were so inclined). There was also a climbing park! This wasn't like a West Edmonton Mall kind of place, it just happened to have these things.

It also had a ski hill.
Inside the mall.
With a chairlift and everything.

Seriously. A ski hill. And an instant resemblance. It wasn't all that cold and it smelled like ozone.

Dinner was excellent. It was great to meet people I'm related to! Karen, Danielle, Kieran and Jayden are awesome. I tried Irn Bru. It tasted.....well, it tasted. I'm glad I tried it, but I won't seek it out.

We made a rough plan to go to Loch Lomond the next day.

Ach and Aye and al of that

Eventually, I got to my airbnb. It was lovely! If I were to buy a flat, it would be this flat.

The following day I went exploring on my own. This mostly meant waking myself up and getting in to Central Glasgow. Given their efficient and inexpensive transit system, this was very easy. It's a grey and cool day but nothing I'm not used to. The trees still have most of their leaves and the colours are very pretty.

I wandered to a cathedral. Surprise! My host recommended I go to a place called The Necropolis, which is a very old graveyard with many prominent Scots buried there. It was also in the vicinity of Glasgow Cathedral, so that was a bonus.

For a very long time, Glasgow was a filthy, industrial city.  This caused a lot of soot and pollution.  There's no getting around that. Sandstone (both blond and red) was the building material of choice/easiest to access. It was used for everything it could be from homes to businesses to graves. Sandstone absorbs pollution. As a result, for a long time a lot of the sandstone was black. Over time, the city has cleaned up a lot. It isn't filthy. It isn't industrial. Efforts have been made to clean the stone up but the residue lingers. It's a part of the building now, part of the story that can't be erased or gentrified. I like it.

In order to get to The Necropolis, you have to cross the Bridge of Sighs. There are many explanations given as to why this is the name but my favourite came from the sign guide made by the historical society: the bridge is the divider between the land of the beginning and the land of the dead, with a sigh being the last breath they give.

Cities are not well known for making space for their dead. People used to be buried in church yards if they were sane and baptised and not diseased. Then the insane/unbaptiesed/diseased became far more numerous and cemeteries needed to be built. And wouldn't you know it, people didn't stop dying. Many cities have come up with numerous ways of dealing with this but in The Necropolis, there is no unused space.

There is no shortage of mausoleums/crypts/gravestones built into the hills. Foliage runs amok and really gives the area a sense of place. Also mausoleums/crypts will never not be creepy.

The church is a survivor from medieval times and is Gothic in design.
We weren't allowed to go in as they were setting up for Remembering Sunday services. This is a particularly poignant year as it marks the 100th anniversary of the armistice and the end of WWI. Less significant: I lost poppies in two countries this year.

Wandering further (and realizing it is that horrible time of year in the Northern Hemisphere where it is dark at 1630), I tried to find my way back to the train station. It shouldn't be a surprise that I got lost. What should come as a surprise is these awful map post things they have up all over the central area that are completely useless. They have no directional arrows, and when you follow what directions they do give you end up in the wrong direction. Then you decide to outsmart them and walk opposite of what they say but you're still wrong. Also Glasgow has no street signs.

The city hall is beautiful, however.

My secondary goal of the day was to find the Duke of Wellington. I've seen several Duke of Wellington statues in my life but this one is special. Capping the statue with a traffic cone has become a traditional practice in the city, claimed to represent the humour of the local population and believed to date back to the first half of the 1980s, if not before. The statue is one of Glasgow's most iconic landmarks. Due to minor damage and the potential for injury that the placing of cones involves, the practice has been discouraged by Glasgow City Council and Strathclyde Police.
Of course, this doesn't stop people. The cone has been removed and replaced more times than people can keep track of; often it is replaced within hours of being removed.

illegitimi non carborundum. Glasgow.

Next: Tims, architects, and cousins.

Getting to Glasgow

My original birthday trip was supposed to be to Iceland. Through the ins and outs of how things go, it wasn't.

Instead, Glasgow, Scotland! With about 48 hours to plan!

I didn't have much in the way of expectations. I wanted to eat a chip butty, a deep fried mars bar, and that was about it. If I could get in contact with my cousins out there, even better!

As always, we start things off with a video.

And we're off! For a little more money  -  I think it was $5 - I got Plus seats all the way there.
This meant that me in my yoga pants and general trashiness got to board the plane faster and into better service than the business men who were in my gate area and complaining that they had to board in Zone 3 because they didn't have their gold status yet. See you later, business men!

Plus is what WestJet calls the service they used to have standard. Free meals, smiling faces. Still no seatback TVs but we can't win them all.

The seats to London were like Lay-Z-Boys. They're the old Quantas planes so it was pretty awesome. Good food, an amenity kit, blankets and good service. Still no seat back TVs but they gave out tablets to those of us in Plus. Every other international airline calls this "economy" (except the lay-z-boy part).

London Gatwick is a perfectly cromulent airport. It's dated. It smells a bit. You can't get airside until a couple of hours before your flight which sucks if you've got six hours to kill and no confidence to leave the place (and no cash to take the bus anywhere because you're not smart enough to think of that sort of thing). There's a lack of seating and a lack of things to do landside. The two terminals are a km or so apart.

Once you're landside in the South terminal, things improve a bit - there's more seating, more shopping, more eating. Great! There's no gate announcements. The airport is very quiet. You only know your gate if you watch the board. The board will tell you what time to expect your gate and then when it comes up, you've got another half to 3/4 of a kilometre to book it in a very short amount of time. They don't mess around here; your gate is listed and you are boarding. Done. Once in the gate areas there is nothing to do or eat or anywhere to sit. Not good or bad, perfectly cromulent.

Up until this point, I did not have any through ticket to Glasgow. Whoops. I didn't plan very well and that's on me. My goal was to get to a BA desk in Pearson and buy a ticket but that didn't exist. I found the one in Gatwick and paid about $200 for a round trip ticket. Thank you, decent Cabbotage laws.

The thing with UK airports is that you walk. Period. Everywhere. There are few moving sidewalks and nothing is close. It is easy to hit your step count in a two hour layover just trying to get from baggage to terminal to gate to terminal. This is true of Heathrow, Gatwick, and Glasgow.

It's not exactly early at this point, so I get on a bus and get in to the city, then to my airbnb.

Next: Glasgow!!

My kinda town

When planning the travel for this trip, I gave the lovely G Adventures people some simple rules: no Air Canada, and below a certain price point. These should be fairly easy to meet. Fortunately, I found the right person at G who was willing to work with me and was very apologetic that I'd have 8 hours in Chicago. That sounds like a bonus day to me!

The flight from San Francisco was a lot shorter than I expected. I planned on sleeping a lot more but my brain forgot time zones are a thing, whoops. This just meant more coffee for me.

When I got to the transit hub, I was impressed. It was clean, organized and the people were super helpful. I had to go to the washroom and it was probably the cleanest bathroom in an airport or transit hub I have ever seen; the toilet had a plastic seat cover that you waved your hand in front of before sitting and you'd have your own fresh seat cover.

The Chicago Transit lady was very helpful. I told her where I wanted to go and she told me not to buy two tickets there - it would be cheaper to buy a one way ticket at the airport to downtown, then buy a ticket from downtown back for less money. Sold! She also searched and searched for a tourist map but couldn't find one and felt bad about giving me a full service map. I didn't care.

I got down to the stop I needed to be at and immediately took a wrong turn. Well, it was the right turn but we'll get to that. First I needed coffee and wifi. Once I obtained that, I set off again with new directions from google maps - and went the wrong way. I went back to Starbucks and started again - in the direction I went in the first time. I thought it was wrong the first time because I hadn't walked far enough and didn't see a landmark I was supposed to that indicated I was going the right way.

It's no secret that I'm a big architecture nerd. I collect architects. I like seeing the buildings, learning about the process, learning the history, and so forth. I like the hidden works of art in every day life. I have a list of architects I want to see in my life and when I'm in a city I know has one, I research it and get my picture.

The Pritzker Architecture Prize is like the Oscars of architecture. The Pritzker family are also pretty big philanthropists as well, so of course I planned on seeing the Pritzker Pavilion.

If it looks at all familiar that's because it was designed by Frank Gehry and looks like every other Frank Gehry building ever. I no longer need to seek out another Gehry. He's very talented but all of his structures look alike.

A few metres away is Cloud Gate. Also known as "that giant bean thing".

I love that even on an overcast day, this was flawless against the sky.
Also to everyone who says I should take pictures of myself, there you go.

I took a wrong turn to get back to the train. You would think this isn't difficult given that I'd just come from there but you would be incorrect. I came in to the park at a different entrance and it was just enough to throw me off. However, it worked out better than planned; earlier on this trip I was on Route 66 through Arizona and Nevada. While in Starbucks, I saw that Route 66 started not too far from the park.

The marker for it even happened to be on the same street I needed for the train! The ride back to O'Hare was uneventful.

What I thought was pretty cool about this airport is that they were giving out flu shots. I think they cost like $10 US. An excellent idea. Kind of ironic that I caught travel crud here (I got my fly shot in October). The airport was CRAZY busy but so efficient. I really liked it.

Next: HOME YAY!!

Flowers in your hair

San Francisco reminds  me a lot of St. John's. It is hilly, it can be foggy, it has stunning Victorian architecture. It does not remind me of St. John's in ways that include an efficient transit system, a thriving harbour front, a thriving and diverse economy, and a grid system to get around.

Our last night together as a group is spent on a boat. Well, theirs is. I wandered around Pier 39. Pier 39 is a magical place where you can get sourdough bread, Biscoff cookies for free, and see some wildlife.

These harbour seals have taken up residence at Pier 39 since the earthquake in 1989. On this day there are hundreds of them but it is not uncommon for there to be upwards of almost a thousand. They are loud and smelly! No one seems to mind because there's even an area set up where tourists can sit and take pictures.

The first question people ask when they hear I went to San Francisco is, "did you see Alcatraz?"
Yes. Yes I did.

The long and short of why I didn't go to Alcatraz is simple: boats. Not cool.

After much bread and many free cookies later, we headed back to the hotel. Well, after Uber stood us up twice.

The following day, we parted ways with the group. It was Mel, James, Nat and I vs the city. We set out for brunch at a place but they had a 45 minute wait. Across the street was a no minute wait that took pity on the poor tourist who forgot to order coffee with her french toast and gave me one for free.

Before looking at a map properly, we decided to head down to Golden Gate Park, foolishly thinking it was near the Golden Gate Bridge. It was lovely but nowhere near the bridge. We figured ourselves out eventually and got on the right path to the bridge.

Path, in this case, being literal.

Mel, James, and Nat

Our plans for the day included going to the bridge, crossing the bridge, coming back, going to Fisherman's Warf and Ghiradelli Square. We had two option when it came to getting to the bridge: take the road, or take the path that ran parallel to the road but was much more scenic.

The path deviated from the road. Greatly. And in miles. We're all from metric countries and as a result miles are hard, yo. We ended up walking about 20 km from the park to the bridge.

We were about to give up hope when:

We saw it!! There it was! It's not deceptively far with no further wayfaring point at all! C'mon, team, we got this!

It happened to be Remembrance Day. We stumbled upon a WWII memorial. We took a minute to rest and reflect.

With a fork in the road and no method of telling where we were actually going, we got our first full view of the bridge.

Magnificent.

We also met our first - and only, and most awesome - stoner.

Our stoner was a slightly older man, just over middle aged. He had a spread of cheese, fruit, wine, and jam. He'd ridden his bike up the god awful hills to get there and seemed to be having a great time. When we asked if we could join him, half joking, he replied, "Well I would not feel so all alone..." and continued to speak the song. Much like Dylan himself. As we walked away, he called out some life advice to us: "Remember what Mama Cass said - feed your head!!"

I took so many really good pictures of the bridge. What none of them tell you is that the bridge is 3.5 km long. Which is really long.

We got to the other side of the bridge much later than we expected. We'd also put on about 25 km at this point and lost the will to carry on.

Oooh, pretty.

 I like when others participate in James pictures. We'd spent a good 20 minutes taking pictures of everyone else looking like they were holding or squishing the bridge, or doing yoga poses in front of it. James the person had an idea for James the bear; he should high five the bridge! While it didn't work out exactly as he planned, it still looks good.

None of us listened to our guide the day before and didn't know how to get back. We thought there was a ferry we could take on the other side. Oh no. We had to go to Saulsilito and  get a ferry. Fortunately we swung a deal with a hop on/hop off bus that as also going there and we got to bypass the gigantic line at the ferry terminal with pre-purchased tickets.

Next: no cows or lamps in sight.

Living dinosaurs

Sequoias are giant. That's why they're called Giant Sequoias.

On the path to the grove of sequoias, a deer jumped out of nowhere and charged across our path. I tried to get a picture of the family of them but apparently "shhh! There's deer over there!" means TALK LOUDER THE DEER CAN'T HEAR YOU. So there's no pictures of deer.

There isn't really a way to capture the scale of these trees. This particular tree was easily 10 metres around and I can't even begin to think how tall. They're pretty much fireproof; you can see evidence of a years old controlled burn in the area and the sequoias are left untouched. Their bark feels kind of like styrofoam. As you can imagine, they're lightening rods - you can see the exit scorch of a bold of lightening on the base of the tree.

Breathtaking.

Further up the path, a sequoia had fallen many years ago. Did I get a picture of its length? I sure did not. But I did get its root structure.

I don't know if it was time or people or the natural internal structure of the tree, but you could walk through it. Well, crouch walk through it. Only one person did it with me. I'm glad I did because how many times in life can you say you walked through a fallen giant sequoia?

Next: places to leave your heart.