Lived and learned from fools and from sages

 In the land where three of the world's major religions were born, it's strange to see a church named after a saint. It's strange to see a Christian church at all. Not in a negative way of course; we've been able to set our clocks by the Adhan (call to prayer) that would ring out multiple times of the day over loud speakers and car radios. Jordan is predominantly Muslim in everything it does, so the Byzantine church of Saint George was a very different place.

Inside the church isn't much different from any other Christian church you've been in. Mostly set up like a Catholic church with the stations of the cross, a few holy water fonts, and even a crypt. Knowing the few things I know, I think if it were Catholic and not Greek Orthodox, it would more properly be described as a basilica.

Remember a while back when I spoke of pedantry? About how it is fairly inarguable that the site of Jesus' baptism was in Jordan and not Israel? This is how we know. The Byzantines who built this church were very good at keeping records, and very good at mosaics. This particular mosaic was built on the floor of a church, which was destroyed by an earthquake in 746. It was partially destroyed but much of it remained.

The map is 16m by 5m and is oriented East to West instead of North to South. In Greek, it depicts several holy sites, including that of Jesus' baptism. There are various scenes in appropriate locations - a lion hunting a gazelle in the Moab desert, for example - and serves as a guide, a jumping off point for several Christian Holy Land pilgrimages. The map's accuracy has been proven by many archaeological discoveries further a flung. 

We carried on to Kerak Castle. This castle was continually occupied for eight centuries. It's been occupied by Muslims, Byzantine, Moabites, and Ottoman. In no particular order. Wars were battle in and for this castle due to it's strategic location and excellent views. Most importantly, whoever controlled the castle controlled trade in the region, as they could physically oversee the trade routes.

Kerak Castle was a one stop shop for those who conquered it. 

 

                                                                        There are prison cells.

                                                                     There are barracks with balconies.

One of the reasons the castle has stood so long is physics. Well, architecture. But also physics. Arches are very strong and this castle is full of them. They were meticulously built, and were as our guide pointed out, "Muslim arches."

The difference is that arches made by the non-Muslim conquerors were not pointy.

The view was spectacular.

Next: Little rock.